
I love Prague.
I want to smother Prague in gravy and lap up every last drop, with the help of those spongy, bread-like, slightly sour dumplings. I want to have Prague’s chubby-cheeked little Czech babies who will, as pre-schoolers, toddle around the wine store carrying recycled 1.5-liter water bottles now filled with wine — the bottles nearly as big as they are.
Prague is beautiful. Not beautiful the way Waikiki is beautiful, or Paris is beautiful, but the way any old, industrial city is beautiful. The way Chicago is beautiful. (Again with the Chicago lust. Guess I need to make a trip there soon.) With old buildings, rebuilt, repurposed for current use. With cramped houses lining skinny streets. With a comfortable grittyness. Not dirty, exactly, just … lived in. Worked in.
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If I’m in love with Prague, the Czech language is Prague’s current girlfriend, who does not particularly enjoy my hanging around.
I would just like to say, for everyone who told me, “Oh, they all speak English in Prague,” YOU ARE A BUNCH OF LIARS. Or, at the very least, never left the tourist district. Because in my neighborhood (a residential area not super close to the tourist areas) almost nobody speaks English. Nor does the guy at the Metro station, two train stations, and various restaurants/stores I’ve visited. I end up having a lot of conversations, like this one:
Waiter/train station attendant/salesperson: @*(&^@#($$)#@_#%)
Me: I’m sorry, I don’t understand. (Note: this is, of course, said in English because my guidebook doesn’t tell me how to say “no speaky the Czech.”)
W/TSA/SP: @%(#$*%@)#$^()&*#$&@
Me: Uh, sure. Sounds good. Dekuji vam.
Czech is not a Romance Language — something I would have a shot at understanding, if not speaking, exactly. Nor is it a Germanic language — I could scrape by. Nor is it a Slovic language, which is fine because that would help me not a bit. Instead, it is its own unique self. And it is HARD. I’m trying to add a word a day to my vocabulary. At that rate, I should be able to order my dinner next year. I do not do anything unless it’s in person, where I can gesture and pantomime and generally look pathetic. Today I managed to convey, “Hey, beer me” to my waiter, halfway across the restaurant. Without words. That was probably the smoothest transaction I had all day.
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Dear Dad, thank you for exposing me to all manner of sausage as a child. I don’t think I’d survive this trip without such knowledge.
Breakfast (provided by the hotel) is interesting… breads and meats (ham, salami, something that I think was bologna and something else that reminds me of liverwurst) and cheeses to choose from. The one thing I instantly recognized — Laughing Cow cheese wedges!
After passing yesterday, I ate the maybe-liverwurst at breakfast today. It was … liverwursty. My lunch (beef goulash) came with a chunk of what I hope was kielbasa (as opposed to pig’s knees or something, which apparently are quite a delicacy around here — I’ve seen them as featured specials on several menus). I am seriously tired of pork. I just want ONE MEAL where there is not a pork product in sight. And I would kill for a green vegetable. Woman does not live on meat and starch alone. At least not this woman. (In all fairness, I get this way with too much domestic travel, too. At some point, my body says, “Salad. Now.” and it doesn’t matter if we’re at the best steakhouse in Omaha, I will be eating a salad for dinner.)
I went to my neighborhood pizzeria tonight: a glass of wine for $1, 100% pork-free margherita pizza and a cucumber/tomato/green pepper salad that was worth every penny of my plane fare here.
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I’ve spent way too much time at the computer, so I’ll sign off here. E-mail access is prevalent, so leave a comment or send an e-mail, as long as you promise to do so in English. Please. I beg of you.
* Well, OK, clearly I do or I wouldn’t go through all this trouble to post. Shut up. And thank Lori for all her hard work.
Posted by Daily Tragedies |
3:34 pm |